by Bill Polick, Editor
We weren't the first to surf Puerto Rico, but I'll
bet we were first to ride waves at many breaks there in 1968...before
the World Contest showed the rest of the world what fabulous waves were
Imagine a beach, five miles or so long, and you and
your surf buddy are the only two people in sight. Now, imagine
tropical water and air and waves waist to chest high. My friend Stan
and I did it time after time.
Drive through the cane field, ford the river, climb
over the rocky point, and there was another empty break. While
mainstream surfers hit places like Isla Verde, Jobo's, Dona Maria's, Tres
Palmas, Domes and other north and west coast spots, Stan and I found
"secret" spots on the northeast coast between Luquillo and Humacao.
I'm sure those spots today are as crowded as
everywhere else, but in 1968 is was lonely out there!